What You Know Matters: The Impact of Storytelling on Coffee Professionals’ Sensory Perception | 25, Issue 21
Corresponding author MATEUS MANFRIN ARTÊNCIO shares the findings of a recent paper, “The Impact of Coffee Origin Information on Sensory and Hedonic Judgment of Fine Amazonian Robusta Coffee,” published in the Journal of Sensory Studies, confirming the significant influence of origin information on the sensory perception of professional coffee tasters.
Because recurrent coffee price crises deeply affected the livelihoods of coffee producers in the region where I grew up, my first job, 30 years ago, was to define the characteristic attributes of coffee from Coatepec, Veracruz, Mexico, to back up my hometown’s application for a denomination of origin before the Mexican Federal Government. Motivated by what we called “the virtuous cycle of good quality,” where quality could be protected and rewarded to the point of even greater quality, our first application was rejected (sensory science was little known in the mid-1990s). We would find success in 1999 with a statewide denomination of origin and the strong political backing of Veracruz state: “Café Veracruz” became the world’s first protected denomination of origin. For five years, I served in the Café-Veracruz Regulatory Board, the organization created to protect the denomination of origin and implement the theory of change through quality recognition. I also participated in many other similar initiatives: Café Chiapas, Genuino Antigua Coffee, Vainilla de Papantla, and several other projects that never saw the light of day, like my cherished Coatepec. I even participated in oriGIn, a world association of geographical indications![1] Many of these initiatives sadly died many years ago: the premiums paid by consumers for a “high-quality region” were not enough to cover the cost of organizational operation and bring extra income to producers. I confess I became pretty cynical; I even advised attendees at a summit in the Philippines in 2016, who were interested in the idea, to forget about it.
For many years, we strived to understand the links between the terroir and coffee—how the geographical, genetic, and human factors shaped coffee’s attributes in a particular region—and perhaps we assumed consumers were just as fascinated as we were. Thanks to Mateus Artêncio and other authors like him, science is finally looking at the other side of the coin, the links between the human mind and the terroir—and we are learning that terroir not only shapes the product, but the perception of a product.
In our 2023 user survey on the alpha version of the extrinsic assessment, the “country, region, or other geographical information” scored 8.1 in a 9-point scale of importance, and was second only to “process type” as the most important extrinsic attribute. This information, together with the study from Artêncio and his colleagues, brings me new, refreshed hope about the potential of specialty coffee-producing regions to get better premiums from the market. The survey respondents are telling us that the origin is extremely important to them; the study from Artêncio et al. confirms that information about the region of origin can modify the sensory perception of coffee. What has been the missing ingredient for consumers to reward regional coffee? Perhaps we have not been communicating the terroir adequately—as Artêncio’s article demonstrates, the way in which you communicate about terroir matters.
The conclusions of this research, as well as many others, agree: what you know matters. It’s something we are keeping in mind as we continue to refine the Coffee Value Assessment, and particularly the extrinsic assessment tools. Thanks to the sensory tools developed in the last 30 years, we are just beginning to scratch the complex interactions between coffee terroir, coffee attributes, and human perception. Hopefully, as we understand more, we will find better ways for regional coffees to be valued for all their attributes, including their regional identity.
Mario Fernández Alduenda
Technical Officer, SCA
In a previous study, we observed the influence of origin information on the brain activity of regular coffee consumers using a blind-tasting experiment while measuring participants’ brain activity, both with and without the presence of an informational cue related to the coffee’s origin;[1] intrigued by these results, our research group were eager to learn more.
Our findings from the previous experiment resonated deeply with the groundbreaking theory of “the predictive mind,” which posits that our brains are not passive recipients of sensory input, but proactive predictors, constantly generating hypotheses about the world around us. Building on this notion, one could imagine the brain as a master storyteller, weaving narratives based on subtle cues. Like skilled novelists, our brains craft the story of taste (a sensory input) long before the coffee even touches our lips, creating a multi-sensory adventure fueled by anticipation. In the realm of coffee tasting, it suggests that the mere communication of a coffee’s origin triggers a cascade of predictions within the brain. So, when in our last study we noted a significant difference in participants’ brain activity once they’d learned that the coffee was from a particular kind of location, it’s likely their predictive minds had conjured up rich anticipations of quality and reputation, expected from a geographical indication. This mental preloading, influenced by the power of suggestion, might have altered their sensory experience, and this emphasizes the intricate connection between expectations and perceived reality.
Piqued by the synergy between the results of this study and predictive mind theory, we began to wonder about the extent of the influence of origin information on taste perception. If merely mentioning the kind of location a coffee had come from was enough to cause participants to have a different experience with the same coffee, what would happen if this information were presented in more detail—or in a more persuasive manner? Our first study focused on coffee consumers and used generic supermarket coffee; would we see the same results if we worked with an audience of trained coffee tasters or used a more specific coffee? As we asked ourselves these questions, a new experiment began to take shape—and we were led to emerging specialty robusta production in the Brazilian Amazon.
The Predictive Mind: Understanding the Brain’s Anticipatory Nature
Imagine sitting in a bustling cafe with a friend, both of you eagerly awaiting your coffee orders. You have ordered your usual dark roast, expecting the comforting embrace of its deep flavors. When the waiter brings your coffee, you take a sip, fully expecting the familiar taste. To your surprise, however, the coffee tastes remarkably different—it’s a light, floral blend. Confused, you glance at your friend, who is equally puzzled. It turns out there has been a mix-up, and you have ended up with your friend’s coffee. In this scenario, your brain, guided by “predictive coding,” has created a vivid expectation based on your usual choice. The unexpected taste of the coffee not only defies your predictions but also challenges your taste buds with an entirely unexpected flavor.
According to the predictive mind theory, also known as the “Bayesian brain” because of its mathematical foundations, our experience of the world starts from within. Supporters of this theory apply it not only to how we perceive things but also to emotions, thinking, and controlling our movements. The concept of predictive coding plays a crucial role in how we make sense of the world, ensuring our experiences are smooth and efficient. Picture not being able to recognize the familiar richness of your daily coffee because each sip of the same cup feels entirely new. Thankfully, our predictive brains step in, allowing us to enjoy our coffee without being constantly astonished, making our coffee moments delightful and familiar.
One way in which we perceive the world is through top-down processing, where we use our past experiences and knowledge to interpret new information or input. Our brains create a model based on past experiences that predicts what we are about to see, hear, touch, smell, and taste. Our predictions are then checked to ensure our inner model matches perceived reality.
This way, the brain works like a structured hierarchical system: higher layers try to guess the hidden reasons behind the sensory input from lower layers. Neurons in higher levels predict the upcoming inputs, comparing them with the actual inputs received. If the predictions don’t match the incoming inputs, the brain updates the model. This ongoing process helps us maintain accurate ideas about our own feelings and what’s happening around us.
With a deeper understanding of how our brains anticipate and interpret sensory inputs, we can now connect these neural processes to the intriguing world of coffee tasting. But first, as this study was conducted in Brazil, it might help if we provide a little more context on the coffee we used, and explain why we used it.
A Journey Through the Richness of Amazonian Robusta Coffee
Brazil, the world’s largest coffee producer and exporter, has in recent years faced a challenge: the country is known mainly for producing commodity coffee, and its specialty industry has found it more difficult to thrive. Geographical Indications (GIs) have flourished in Brazil as a way to differentiate premium foods, helping specialty coffee producers escape the crystallized image of commodity coffee by emphasizing the natural and geographic aspects of a place (terroir) and the productive methods employed (savoir-faire). This is because the feelings and qualities associated with a region can be transferred to the product, ensuring consumers of its safety, quality, and uniqueness. The use of GI as a label to indicate quality is a recent trend in coffee, but has been common in other foods such as wine and cheese.[2]
There are now 15 coffee GIs in Brazil, with one of the latest—established in 2021—denoting a particular area in the Brazilian Amazon region. Coffee production in the Matas de Rondônia GI is focused on robusta coffee (Coffea canephora), and it is driven by over 10,000 small-scale family and Indigenous coffee farmers, who have grown robusta coffee for over 50 years. Known as “Amazonian robusta,” the coffee from this region is recognized for its sweetness and common notes of chocolate, fruit, spice, and herbs, which are fostered by the Amazon’s environmental conditions as well as the expertise of local producers.
Matas de Rondônia is also known for sustainability, as the farms in the region place an emphasis on sustainable coffee management; conservation of the Amazonian soil, water sources, and forests; and the reduction of agrochemical use. We were confident that this region—known for its ability to balance financial resources, enhance village livelihoods, and preserve the Amazon forest—would be a good test case within Brazil’s specialty coffee industry when it came to understanding the professional Brazilian coffee tasters’ predictive minds.
Taste Test: The Predictive Mind in Coffee Tasting
Unlike a straightforward origin label, storytelling provides origin information while offering a captivating representation of a place. Noa Berger’s exploration of the interconnection between specialty coffee, chocolate, and wine in Issue 20 of 25 resonates with the idea that storytelling, as a strategy employed in various industries, enhances the consumer experience by weaving captivating narratives around the product’s origin.[3] The dynamic exchange of practices and inspirations between these realms, highlighted in Berger’s analysis, emphasizes the interconnectedness of storytelling in creating a unique and engaging narrative for specialty products. Notably, even larger supermarket brands have embraced this approach, incorporating storytelling elements into their special coffee lines.
This study aimed to explore the impact of origin information in two formats: firstly, by presenting only the name of the GI, and secondly, by incorporating the GI’s name within a storytelling context. Specifically, our research team wanted to investigate how this information would influence the sensory evaluations and overall judgment of fine robusta coffee from the Brazilian GI Matas de Rondônia. By choosing this coffee, our study would focus not only on an emerging region and terroir, but also on the emergence of a species that we’re beginning to understand through a new lens (specialty robusta): this would hopefully provide us with insights around how to promote new high-quality coffees.
This time, our study consisted of 150 highly trained coffee tasters (baristas, graders, producers, roasters, and traders) who had a minimum of a year’s experience evaluating the flavor profiles of both arabica and robusta coffee. It is essential to note that participants also had at least a year of experience evaluating Amazonian robusta coffee, so its distinct taste and aroma were familiar to them.
We divided the participants into three equal groups who would all taste the same coffee but receive a range of information about it before consuming. Group 1 received no information about the coffee being served, while Group 2 was informed only that the coffee originated from the GI Matas de Rondônia. Group 3, however, read a text where this information was embedded in a storytelling format, with more details about the features of the GI:
The coffee produced in the GI Matas de Rondônia evokes the richness of the Amazonian region, a unique and impressive ecosystem. The Matas de Rondônia region is the land of Amazonian robustas, which are exotic and special coffees, with pleasant flavors and aromas. They are the result of the combination of technology, sustainable production, and the natural characteristics of the Amazonian terroir. Besides, traditional family-based producers, including indigenous people, come together to add their know-how to this true Brazilian specialty.
Participants received an evaluation sheet consisting of questions about the coffee’s overall attributes[4] as well as common coffee descriptors,[5] selected based on their presence in the SCA’s 2015 edition of the 2004 cupping protocol and the SCA, World Coffee Research, and University of California Davis Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel (2016). We also asked participants how much they liked the coffee (a hedonic, or affective, test) at the end of the process to indicate their overall preference. Participants were asked to cleanse their palates with water before evaluating the coffee, to avoid any “carryover” taste effect.[6]
The coffee, a single origin robusta provided by a local producer from Matas de Rondônia, was freshly ground and brewed by coffee cuppers in a pour-over/ filter method, and served at a temperature between 55 and 65°C. The coffee received a grading of 85 points, with its sensory characteristics thoroughly described by certified sensory analysts from the Coffee Quality Institute, known as Q-graders (refer to Figure 1).
Figure 1. Figure 1 presents the flavor description of the coffee used in the experiment in a “flavor wheel.” In the center of the wheel are nine general attributes describing the main flavor characteristics of the coffee. As you move outward on the wheel, these characteristics become more specific. For instance, it’s possible that the taster perceived a caramel flavor while drinking the coffee, leading to an association with brown sugar because of their similar sweetness and toffee notes, categorizing both under the main group “sweet.”
Figure 2. Figure 2 presents the means of all participants’ scores on coffee’s sensory evaluation. We can observe that—although following a similar pattern—groups scored differently, especially in the attributes where statistical differences were found. For instance, coffee was rated as more acidic by participants of Group 3 (storytelling) than by participants of Group 1 (no information). Regarding overall flavor, differences in ratings were observed between participants of Group 2 (GI cue only) and Group 3, with the latter presenting higher ratings. The nutty flavor ratings given by participants of Group 1 were higher than the ratings obtained from participants of Group 2. The same effect was observed for cacao flavor nuances, where ratings of Group 1 were higher in comparison with Group 2.
Outcomes and Observations
Let’s begin by showing how each group scored the coffee’s overall attributes and aroma/flavor descriptors (Figure 2). Since there are visible differences between the groups, this suggests the mental images conjured by the origin information and storytelling impacted the judgments the participants made about the product’s characteristics—and validates the impact of external information on sensory perception! However, these results were not statistically significant when it came to the question on hedonic judgment, or preference. There are several possible explanations as to why this was the case,[7] but either way, the lack of statistically significant impact on the hedonic scores contradicts previous studies that show people tend to prefer food products more when their origin is indicated.
Overall, the results of the study showed that the way a story is told about the coffee’s origin can influence the perception of trained coffee tasters, who are generally expected to remain unbiased by top-down information processing.
Specifically, we found differences between the way the coffee tasters noted their perception of acidity and overall flavor, important attributes that contribute to a sense of coffee quality in the market. Group 3 in particular, who read the “storytelling” version of the origin information (which noted the coffee’s “unique and impressive ecosystem,” “exotic and special” qualities, and the “natural characteristics of the Amazonian terroir”), scored the coffee higher in both characteristics. These statements created an impression of authenticity and naturalness, concepts likely already associated with Amazonian robusta in the participants’ minds. Influenced by this information, participants were expecting high-quality coffee, often associated with vibrant acidity and rich overall flavor. Indeed, the coffee used as the sample presented remarkable notes of acidity and flavor, but the fact that this group scored higher than the other groups in these attributes demonstrates the concept of top-down processing outlined in the predictive mind theory. Essentially, exposure to the story emphasizing the coffee’s unique qualities led participants to anticipate a high-quality drink, which likely adjusted their mental expectations—prompting them to give higher scores for acidity and overall flavor. This is a noteworthy outcome, given that the participants encompassed baristas, graders, producers, roasters, and traders—roles traditionally assumed to remain unaffected by external influences.
In comparison to the information on the GI cue only, it was noted that the storytelling had a more pronounced effect on participants’ assessments. We posit that the territorial anchoring in nature and craftsmanship conveyed through storytelling might have imparted a heightened symbolic and emotional significance to it.
Interestingly, Group 1, which received no information about the coffee and its origin, was able to discern certain flavor notes better than the other groups. This was evident in the detection of caramel, cacao, and nutty flavor nuances. According to the flavor wheel derived from Q-graders’ taste analysis, these notes are pronounced in the coffee used as a sample, attributable to its species, variety, and processing methods. It is also conceivable that, without firmly established expectations set by external information, the participants were able to evaluate the coffee with less influence from top-down information. In general, we posit that storytelling through the use of origin information has the capacity to amplify trained tasters’ perceptions of broader characteristics, while potentially tempering their sensitivity to specific flavor nuances.
What Does It All Imply?
These findings underscore the pivotal role of extrinsic cues—particularly geographical indications, due to the focus of this study—in shaping a taster’s sensory perceptions of a coffee. Although specialty coffee has long focused on integrating origin information into its marketing, this study highlights not only the crucial link between product information and consumers’ tasting experience, but also the impact that this kind of information has on professional tasters, too.
For consumers, the availability and presentation of information about where a coffee came from should be thoughtfully designed, considering the intricate web of consumer expectations. By aligning geographical information with what consumers anticipate, it may be possible to significantly elevate a consumer’s sensory experience of a coffee: this strategic alignment of product cues not only enhances the consumer’s sensory journey but also establishes a profound connection between the product and its origin.
Moreover, the careful incorporation of a coffee’s geographic information, especially in the context of new coffee varieties and novel GIs, can remarkably enhance the perceived quality, even among experienced coffee tasters. This insight implies that geographical indication information has a considerable positive influence on consumers’ judgments, amplifying the appeal of the product.
Through the lens of the predictive mind theory, this research also highlights the significance of top-down processing in shaping consumer perceptions. The brain’s predictions, based on prior knowledge and expectations, significantly influence how product information is interpreted and experienced. Understanding this cognitive process enables a more nuanced approach to product communication, ensuring that product cues align seamlessly with consumers’ mental frameworks, enhancing the overall tasting experience.
Furthermore, this study also suggests that GI information is most impactful when supported by specific aroma and flavor descriptions on a label: these detailed descriptions not only enrich the overall understanding of the product but also contribute significantly to the enhancement of the consumption experience.
In essence, this research illuminates the path toward crafting an immersive and appealing sensory adventure for consumers. By artfully intertwining origin information, stories, tailored product descriptions, and consumer expectations, the specialty coffee market can effectively enhance its communication strategies, fostering a deeper appreciation for the artistry of coffee. As the market continues to evolve, understanding the nuances of product evaluation, the impact of extrinsic cues, and the role of top-down processing remain fundamental in crafting memorable consumer experiences. ◇
MATEUS MANFRIN ARTÊNCIO is a PhD student in Business Administration at Universidade de Sao Paulo and was the corresponding author on the paper “The Impact of Coffee Origin Information on Sensory and Hedonic Judgment of Fine Amazonian Robusta Coffee,” published in the Journal of Sensory Studies, with co-authors ALVARO LUIS LAMAS CASSAGO, RENATA KELLY DA SILVA, FABIANA M. CARVALHO, FERNANDO BATISTA DA COSTA, MARINA TOLEDO LOURENÇÃO ROCHA, and JANAINA DE MOURA ENGRACIA GIRALDI: doi.org/10.1111/joss.12827.
Simulation vs. Prediction: What’s the Difference?
You may already be familiar with the idea of the human brain’s ability to simulate a sensory input—particularly if you read “Words of Attraction” by Bente Klein Hazebroek and Ilja Croijmans in Issue 20 of 25. Although there are connections between the simulation theory that Hazebroek and Croijmans reference—especially when they conclude that “descriptions (and visualizations) can help set expectations or spark desire in consumers even when you’re unable to offer a sample of a product’s taste or smell”—and our brain’s predictive process, they are different. While both affect our perception, not all expectations (described by the predictive mind theory) lead to simulations, but simulations can help to set expectations. Imagine that you are about to taste a new coffee for the first time: your expectation might be influenced by the packaging, brand reputation, or prior knowledge about the coffee, but you might not actively—through simulation—mentally imagine what the coffee might taste like based on this information, before drinking it. However, if you do take that step to simulate your experience before you have it, it will certainly impact what you expect to taste.
The “predictive mind” theory, often traced back to the work of Karl Friston and his colleagues, has its roots in neuroscience, cognitive science, and the philosophy of mind. The predictive processing framework has gained popularity and has been applied to various domains because it offers a theoretical perspective on how the brain might organize information and make sense of the surrounding world by actively predicting and updating its internal models based on sensory input (including images and descriptions).
In the context of predictive coding, the brain is constantly engaged in generating predictions about sensory input based on prior knowledge and experiences. Descriptions and visualizations can be seen as tools that contribute to this predictive process, shaping expectations and evoking responses (in their case, willingness to pay) even in the absence of direct sensory experiences. This aligns with the Bayesian Brain framework, where the brain is viewed as a predictive machine, actively making inferences and updating expectations to navigate and interact with the environment.
Another way to distinguish between the two is the difference between expectation and experience. Simulation theory, as applied in Hazebroek and Croijman’s study, is more closely related to the formation of expectations before we taste (none of their study participants actually tasted any coffee—they were just asked about their expectations). In this study, however, both expectation and experience were actively studied: in this case, the predictive mind theory offers us a better understanding of how access to information not only shapes our expectations, but also impacts our sensory experiences in the moment.
References
Introduction
[1] Our Members - oriGIn | Organization for an International Geographical Indications Network (origin-gi.com).
Feature
[1] To access the author's previous work, see “All in the Mind: How External Cues Impact Brain Activity and Preference” in Issue 18 of 25, https://sca.coffee/sca-news/25/issue-18/allin-the-mind-how-external-cues-impact-brain-activity-and-preference
[2] For instance, Roquefort is a type of blue cheese made from sheeps’ milk in Southern France. Even though similar cheeses are made elsewhere following the same production processes, only those produced in the French commune of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon can be called Roquefort, according to European law. Cheeses produced outside this designated area can be labeled as “Roquefort type” or “similar,” but they cannot be classified as authentic “Roquefort.”
[3] Noa Berger, “Not Just a World of Coffee: Connecting Coffee, Wine, and Cacao,” Issue 20, 25, https://sca.coffee/sca-news/25/not-just-a-world-of-coffee-connecting-coffee-wine-and-cacao
[4] Aroma, acidity, body, sweetness, and overall.
[5] Acidity, floral, fruity, earthy, herbal, roasted, cereal, spicy, nutty, cacao, fermented, and caramel.
[6] The “carry-over” taste effect happens when the flavor of something you ate earlier affects how you taste something next.
[7] “Chance” is always a possible reason for why results aren’t statistically significant, but so too is the fact that maybe GI simply wasn’t enough of a driver to provoke a preferential response in professional coffee tasters to a meaningful degree.
We hope you are as excited as we are about the release of 25, Issue 21. This issue of 25 is made possible with the contributions of specialty coffee businesses who support the activities of the Specialty Coffee Association through its underwriting and sponsorship programs. Learn more about our underwriters here.